Interview of Lin Jie Kong by Freya Bennett
When you think of Chinese food in Australia, it’s often the nostalgic aroma of sweet and sour pork or the spectacle of sizzling Mongolian lamb that comes to mind. But beyond the menu lies a deeply intertwined story of migration, resilience, and connection.
In Chopsticks or Fork?, Lin Jie Kong and Jennifer Wong dive into the heart of regional Chinese restaurants, uncovering the rich tapestry of family histories and local flavours that define this unique culinary phenomenon. Through vibrant stories and recipes, their book not only spotlights the hard work and creativity behind these beloved institutions but also offers a fresh perspective on what it means to build community through food. We chatted to Lin Jie Kong about the inspiration behind Chopsticks or Fork?, the unforgettable stories of the families featured, and how regional Chinese restaurants have shaped Australia’s cultural and culinary identity.
What inspired you to create Chopsticks or Fork?, and how did your experiences shape the book’s concept and content?
One night, in search of dinner towards the end of a long road trip, I found myself at the RSL club in Karuah, a sleepy bayside town just north of Port Stephens. I feared it would be another night of choosing between chicken parmy and fish and chips, but was surprised to find a well-reviewed Chinese restaurant in the club.
The first bite of the Peking pork I ordered was a revelation: juicy, crispy, and perfectly covered in sweet sauce. It was just as good as any from the top restaurants in Sydney. Rolling myself back to the hotel, as content as a fat Buddha statue, I rang my creative confidante Jennifer Wong: ‘You won’t believe where I’ve just had the BEST Chinese meal!’
We traded questions back and forth: ‘Why were these people in Karuah? Where were they from? Why were they running a Chinese restaurant, and how were they serving up such delicious food? Could we travel around country Australia and ask these questions?’
Can you share a memorable story from one of the families featured in the book that particularly resonated with you?
One of my favourite stories comes from Sheffield, Tasmania. It’s a town of around 1600 residents east of Launceston, and in it lies T’s Chinese restaurant, run by Alex Zhao, his wife Sammi and with the help from Alex’s parents, Victor and Sonya. The restaurant is possibly Australia’s only paddock to plate Chinese restaurant, using the Angus beef, Berkshire Pork and Dorper lamb that they raise on their farm in mouthwatering dishes like beef and black bean, potstickers and cumin lamb hand pulled noodles.
However, the family farm didn’t have an auspicious start, although it was Victor’s life dream to own a farm, the family had zero experience in running a farm and when they decided to open a Chinese restaurant, they also had zero experience running restaurant. On opening night, the food just wasn’t quite right. Victor’s attempt at beef and black bean definitely ruffled some customer feathers, so much that Alex ended up googling a recipe for the dish.
The story of T’s Restaurant, like many others is one of perseverance and survival, with perhaps a dollop of naivety and courage to jump into such endeavours and come out so successful.
In what ways do you think regional Chinese restaurants have impacted the cultural landscape of Australia, and why is it important to celebrate their stories?
Almost everyone in Australia has story to tell about a Chinese restaurant experience. These restaurants have formed an intrinsic part of the Australian identity, they’re a place for celebration, relationships and community. Often, they’re the places where many, especially in regional areas, encounter their first non-Aussie cuisine. The restaurants, look, sound, feel and taste exotic. They also embody a certain era of nostalgia, of the 70s and 80s.
Whilst the local Chinese restaurant exists in our cultural lexicon, what we don’t often get is a look into the stories behind the restaurants. The people running the business, cooking in the kitchen, feeding their beloved communities. These are Australian stories which should be celebrated as they provide an insight into our history, our relationship with food and the immigrant journey.
With the diversity of dishes included in Chopsticks or Fork?, how do you balance traditional recipes with contemporary Australian tastes?
We pretty much cover most of the core staples of an Australian Chinese Restaurant menu, from sweet and sour pork, to Mongolian lamb to deep fried ice cream. The taste of those dishes are bang on what you expect from a restaurant but just adapted to the techniques and resources of the home cook.
What was also fascinating throughout this journey was finding out how innovative these restaurants were. The book also includes a bunch of recipes which are often influenced by the background of the families who run the restaurants. For example, at Happy Garden in Darwin the Lee family originally came from East Timor and some of the dishes reflect these roots, like the tangy, sweet and very moorish tamarind chicken wings. A reflection of how almost every East Timorese household had tamarind trees in their backyard.
As someone deeply immersed in both food and storytelling, how do you hope Chopsticks or Fork? will inspire readers to connect with their own culinary heritage?
For me, food is very much a declaration of love. I’m from a Chinese culture where we don’t necessarily say I love you outright, but we will definitely cook your favourite dish to express our love. I hope the book offers readers an opportunity to learn and think about the people behind their favourite restaurants, and cherish the hard work and sacrifices that brings them this delicious food.
