Words by Madhumalika Bharani // illustrations by Nea Valdivia
When I think of Manali, I’ve always envisioned picturesque snow-capped mountains, lush green valleys, and serene rivers. Manali is a town known for adventure sports – skiing, paragliding, and river rafting – which makes it a perfect place for thrill-seekers. But Manali also offers a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Himachal Pradesh, India, with its ancient temples and traditional handicrafts.
Situated in the northern part of India, Himachal Pradesh is one of thirteen mountain states of India. In the past, it was primarily inhabited by tribes such as Koli, Kirata, Hali, Mundas, Kols, and more. The foothills of Himachal Pradesh were also famously inhabited by the people of the Indus Valley civilization. The state had a constant inflow of local powers and principalities, frequently facing invasions. Himachal Pradesh is a multilingual state with people speaking languages like Kangri, Kulvi, and Kinnauri. It is also internationally renowned for its handicrafts, including carpets, kullu shawls, and woodwork. Local music, dance, and festivals like Kullu Dussehra play a vital role in building and representing their culture. Himachal Pradesh’s cuisine has Punjabi and Tibetan influences. Some popular dishes include Siddu and Kullu trout, with non-vegetarian food being more prominent due to the limited availability of fresh vegetables in the hilly terrain.
For me, however, Manali is even more than all that. Way more. Manali is my dream.
My family hails from the state of Tamil Nadu, India, but I’ve primarily settled down in Hyderabad. I’ve adored the magic of the world for as long as I can remember. I’ve always wanted to travel, go backpacking, and see every corner. But it became an achievable dream when I experienced Manali in a Bollywood movie about ten years ago. The movie, “Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani”- a story of career aspirations, dreams, love, and friendships, centered on Bunny, a free-spirited dreamer chasing his dream of being successful in the field of Journalism as he grows and understands all his relationships- modified my perspective so much that I chose to pursue a career in Journalism and writing, inspired by it. But the biggest influence it had on me was a drive to visit Manali.
For anyone who knows Manali, it is the ideal holiday. You can enjoy Manali in different ways- be it just taking the scenery in or participating in all the adventure sports. But for me, it was different. It was not about the destination, but the idea of it. To me, Manali was one of the first steps to discovering the rest of the world. To me, it was an irresistible mix of adventure and familiarity. Manali was the first trip I thoroughly experienced, every single part of it. Let’s call it the practice run for all my upcoming global travels. It was the perfect launchpad as a landscape rich with culture, art, community, history, and the unbeatable combination of unpredictability and the comfort of home. And, thanks to the movie, for a long time, my dreams and career aspirations would often begin with Manali in my head. I know it seems rather silly, but because of all of that, Manali made me feel a compelling need to experience the rest of the world on a deeper level.
It had been my dream for ten years. Everyone close to me knows it’s part of my personality. Madhu means Manali. So in December 2023 when my family and I embarked on our trip, my dream came true.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s not an easy job to enjoy Manali in December; the cold weather was stressful to get used to, especially for someone like me, who grew up in the southern part of India, where the winter season also often feels like the summer. But I chose to embrace the adventure. The feeling of waking up to snow-clad mountains with the sun peeking over them was worth wearing four layers of clothing. The snow-covered landscape was breathtaking, and the crisp mountain air filled me with a sense of exhilaration. As we ventured out to explore the picturesque town, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience such natural beauty firsthand.
To journey from Delhi to Manali, we had to reserve a bus. We were traveling with five other families, including the family we were staying with. At 5pm on the day of the trip, we boarded the bus, and after a short trip around Delhi, we had picked everyone else up and were on our way to Manali.
It was about a 12-hour journey (with additional stops) to Manali and on the way, around midnight, we stopped at a dhaba (a sort of truckstop restaurant on highways that is open late into the night) and got dinner. We reached Manali around 7 am the next morning and once we got there, we immediately started our exploration enjoying the scenery despite being exhausted from the travel and getting used to the cold. After enjoying the sites, our first day in Manali ended with us finally checking into our hotel.
I’ve been in my share of hotels, but this one was one of the best (I could be a little biased here, haha). It was a really cute hotel, mostly decorated in shades of red. I was sharing the room with my sister and it had a diagonally faced king-sized bed decked with cozy comforters, pillows, and cushions, a small heater on one side, some wardrobes, a small bathroom with the shower area tucked into a corner, and a small coffee table. The room was lit with aesthetic-looking lights set to the perfect brightness. Our door also had a human-sized mirror fixed towards the inside of the room. Even though there weren’t any ceiling fans or air conditioners, we needed our comforters to keep us warm. It also had a breathtaking view of the snow-capped mountains. Waking up to that view every morning was such a surreal feeling and I had to pinch myself to believe I was really here.
On day two, we went out to shop on Manali’s famous Mall Road. The bustling heart of the town, Manali’s Mall Road is a historic slice of its charm. The Mall Road is one of the best reflections of Manali’s development into a popular tourist spot from a quiet hill village. Mall Road started as a hilly, commercial escape for British officers and travelers during the British colonial era, and over time, as it gained popularity with Indian and other International tourists, it developed into a central marketplace lined with cafes, shops, and cozy guesthouses.
I got small trinkets for myself that would remind me of the town, some gifts for my friends, and some clothes. My favorite part of the day was eating the momos– a famous local cuisine. Momos are soft, steamed, or fried, delicious Tibetan dumplings, stuffed either with vegetables or meat. They are often had with a special, spicy sauce and are popular across the Himalayas, especially beloved in India.
After walking a while we were exhausted so when I spotted a local cooking and selling batches of momos my mouth began to water. Our group crowded around him and devoured twelve plates of momos in fifteen minutes. The flavors and spices were unlike anything I’d eaten, and I devoured three out of the twelve full plates.
Day three was all white. We drove up to the higher mountains to experience snow. This was my first time experiencing snow and I was thrilled and exhilarated! After driving for about thirty minutes, we found someone who rented snowsuits. We suited up and left on a long, long drive that lasted about an hour and a half (I took two thirty-minute naps and almost went through my long playlist) to reach Rohtang Pass. To reach Rohtang Pass, we had to pass through the Atal Tunnel, which is the longest highway tunnel above 10,000 feet, spanning over 9 kilometers. Rohtang Pass is an ancient trade route that has connected the Kullu Valley to the Lahaul-Spiti region for centuries. It was a white dream. Beautiful, mighty mountains, blanketed by soft snow surrounded us in all four directions. We spent two hours playing in the snow, making snowmen, snow angels and having snowball fights. After our long day in the snow, we rested on day four. We sat around a bonfire, played foosball and cards in the hotel game room, watched movies, and took in the beauty of the stream that ran across from our hotel.
On Day Five we explored the culture of Himachal. We visited one of Manali’s most prominent temples, the Hidimba Devi Temple. The goddess worshipped there is believed to be the mighty Bhima’s wife, Hidimba. Locals believe that if you pray to her with all your heart, it will come true. The temple was located in a forest-like area, and we took a hike to get there. The temple is so beautiful, and the architecture so intricate. Located in a forest, we not only enjoyed the beauty of the temple but also the gorgeous natural surroundings. On day six, we explored the adventure sports. We decided to go ziplining over a massive river at a greater height than where we had been staying. Once we had all zoomed across, we got some hot and spicy Maggi, a popular noodle brand in India, famous for being a hill station favorite (I will never forget eating Maggi in Manali). Boy, was that the best Maggi I’d ever had? Wow!
Day seven was our last day. It was New Year’s Eve, and we had decided to have a relaxed evening, dress up, and party just a little. The hotel we were staying at had organized a New Year’s bash for all of its guests. The party started at 5pm, so, for the first half of the day, we slept and relaxed, tucked into our warm and comfortable beds. The party was a great way to meet new people and listen to their stories and unique take on different things. We danced, sang, ate, and partied together till countdown.
Manali was everything I had ever imagined. The scenic beauty, the food, the culture, — all of it was worth waiting for and worth dreaming of. My trip to Manali exceeded all my expectations. It was the perfect way to end the year and start a new one. I’ve created memories that will last a lifetime.
Being there made me believe that one day, I’d get to experience La Louvre in France, be a part of the Mamma Mia experience in Greece, walk the Great Wall of China, marvel at the Sydney Opera House, and play in the La Tomatina festival in Spain. One day, I’m going to do it all, one day, I will see it all.